A trip to the beautiful Westcoast of New Zealand, Monday 11 Feb

Morning dawned – cloudy again. Made tracks down past Hokitika to the newest attraction a walk amongst the tree tops. You walk about 25-40 meters above ground on a steel platform and see the ancient Rimu / Kakitea / Miro Trees from equal height. Then there is this Central tower with 107 steps – round and round you go. If you suffer from Vertigo -- well you either out of luck or grit your teeth and hope for the best. You can also see and walk on the one cantilevered bit and enjoy scenery looking over the lake. It sways a bit so motion sickness folks might find it a bit daunting. In fact the whole structure has some flex in it and no doubt will rock and roll in a decent storm. Guess this is to allow for expansion / contraction during the heat/cold AND any earthquakes that may rumble by. The views itself are fantastic . Even on a cloudy day. It may pay to go and do this particular touristy thing on a clear winters day – then you can see the snow topped mountains in the background making for good images – a photographers dream. Check out their website and images along with the video!!  --->  http://treetopsnz.com/


On our visit they mountains where shrouded in cloud – so missed out there. The whole thing is a bit pricey – and you will need to allow 45-60 minutes on the walk itself. I am sure the attached cafe and shop are supporting this new investment.

From there we drove around the Lake, back via the state highway to another campsite and did the bellbird walk – a very short 10 min loop – minus any Bellbirds!! The sun came out and made for a hot gaze over the lake – a popular boating / swimming and camping spot.

Feeling a bit peckish we decided to head back to Hokitika and have lunch in one of Brush's MOST Favorite Cafe on the strip – The Cafe de La Paris. Decided to tease the lad and txt'ed the following – “You be so jealous” which immediately resulted in a phone call!!   ---->   http://www.cafedeparis.net.nz/CafeDeParis/Home.php

The 'light lunch' was followed by a walk to the beach where we hoped to see the annual beach craft. Every year the folks are invited to get creative with the drift wood and build something with nothing more then a bit of string – if that. The price winning entry for this year was a grand Steinway piano. Sadly the Spring tide had come up and washed away some of the entries already – it never lasts more then a week or so – weather and storms depending. Still what we saw was creative and very artistic / live-like. We took lots of pictures from the stuff that was left for display before the weather claimed the rest! Here can bee seen a Kiwi nesting in what would be a  cabbage tree!
In-between there was a Petrel chasing some seagulls – had difficulty keeping up with him in-flight and snap a good picture. You don't often see the Petrel onshore – they are the smaller cousins of the Albatross and usually sea bound. Mamabear enjoying the sun and waves from the sea crashing onshore (lots of rumbling noises).

 After this we strolled through the Metropolitan town of Hokitika (which turns out by our visits to the coast it must be our favorite town there) and went for a stroll up and down the short main-drag. One Greenstone shop very kindly donated a replacement string form my Greenstone teardrop pendant (which eventually had worn out the string after 10 years of continuous wear) so that was nice – only to find out that the other major (and some may say snobby) greenstone gallery offered a replacement for NZ $ 10. A quick stop at the local supermarket for apples and urm yeah that "liquid grape-juice" – was followed by incursion of a local nick-knack shop selling all sorts of stuff. It had a “alternate” flavor to it with second hand books and far east spiritual influence. Well folks – it was the ONLY yes only shop that sold any Hokitika badges. Turns out the where locally made and yes I got the last two ones. Due to the fact that they were local made (I guess by a mum on her singer) they were a tad more expensive then the others- but hey I am not complaining rather counting myself very lucky indeed. By this stage we had seen everything we wanted to see and do in Hokitika and it was time to head into Greymouth for more exploring – high on the list the newly opened Monteiths Brewery which offers guided tours and tasting sessions and – shall we say – some very unique men's urinals!! Had initial trouble finding the place – being at the wrong end of Herbert street – and once we got there we just missed one tour – so had a drink and waited for our turn! Guide trying very hard cracking many jokes selling the story. Tour very informative and you get the gist that local pride can still trump Auckland arrogance!! At the end of the tour everyone gets to 'pour' a small pint – which is not as easy as it looks.

 Mamabear doing very well as you can see.  I had a "Radler" beer - which is really a  light beer with a lemon flavour.  I am sure the European Radler is a half and half - beer / lemonade drink.  Please do correct me if my memory is proving to be wrong!! Vaguely remember also something about court-case and about naming rights - and this is still happening.   This was followed by dinner at the Bonzai Pizzeria were a large meal arrived and a fantastic garlic 'bread'. Got chatting to the only other eating customer- a local identity: Mick Collins. He certainly had a colourful life – Army / fishing / and is a renowned greenstone carver. Nothing like meeting the locals. Tanked up on petrol and found out that we have had 25 degrees C despite the many overcast periods and headed back to Barrytown cottage for a rest before heading down to the beach for the usual sunset – no luck - too many clouds – so strolled along the beach in search of greenstone instead– which we keep repeatedly being told, are there. Not sure about that. Sadly we also saw the mess the freedom campers are leaving behind. Wonder how they feel if I visit their country and leave my toilet stuff openly lying on the ground in their backyard???

A trip to the beautiful Westcoast of New Zealand

So the minions of this cave bear clan thought it was impossible to hit the road past 9am and no later. Had a crappy night with the dog across the road whining all night long and keeping me awake not to mention the Henry Ford put-put car noisily ambling past our house at around 2 am. Eventually woke (if that is what you can call it)  at 6.50am and listened to the news / had breakfast and packed and left the house at 9.25am. Yess - see it can be done!! Tanked and hit the road.

Drive non eventful - just some idiots on the road wanting to drive either right in the middle of the road or on the other side of the road altogether. Made Arthur's Pass just before lunch time and set of to the Devil's punchbowl falls - all of 131meter hike UP and total of 288 steps to get there (of course there are 288 steps back down as well). Mamabear huffing and puffing (and I could hear Percy's voice - yes I can, yes I can, yes I can!! I made it!!) At the top , surprise very lonely - no other people around- figures, we were there at lunchtime and so took lots of pics. The waterfall is stunning at the best of times and just grandiose after a decent rainfall.

Then back down to the car and our finger-food lunch, while we encountered lots of people coming up to the falls. Obligatory 'loo stop and we hit the road again - this time stopping at no less then two lookout points near Arthur's pass . Normally we breeze through - but we had time so made a point of checking out the sights. Again lots of pics taken

First stop - general lookout-point at Arthur's pass - near the viaduct. The pass is named after Sir Arthur Dudley Dobson (1841–1934), who led the first party of Europeans across the pass in 1864. The $25m Otira Viaduct, was opened by the end of 1999, and replaced one of the most insecure stretches of State Highway 73 between Arthur’s Pass and Otira. Its vulnerability was at its greatest over a 3 km portion from Peg Leg Creek to Candys Bridge, during which it climbed 65 m up from Peg Leg Flat over a major rock avalanche and scree slope before dropping 165m in a series of hairpin (and real scary) bends to the Candys Bridge site. Gradients were typically 13 percent and rise as high as 18 percent. In addition to the steep grades and tight corners, which restricted the length of any vehicle able to use the road to a 13m maximum ( so no Lorries / Trucks / Buses or camper-vans and certainly no towing of any kind - boats or caravans or trailers.) The overriding concern was the high risk of losing the road through erosion of the slip face below by weathering and the scour action of the Otira River. Thankfully through some very good engineering and willpower the Otira Viaduct was eventually built and opened. It has changed the way the west coast is functioning. All heavy goods had to be either shipped in or driven west via the Lewis Pass or indeed the southern Haast Pass with both adding a considerable cost in time and petrol. Now with the Viaduct providing easy access to the West-coast it has changed the amount of goods and services flowing across the Alps and it's certainly a contributer to a more free flowing economy. If you have the time, stop at the Information / DOC Center in Arthur's Pass and see the history / pictures of early travel and the story on how they build the Viaduct. It is breath taking just reading it. Anyhow - I am rambling - so lets move along. . . . 

Next stop was at the Candy bend and surprise surprise we saw LOTS and lots and lots of Southern RATA ( a brother to the Pohutukawa tree) in full flower. MORE pics were taken. Just as well we now have digital - would have burned through rolls and rolls of 35mm film!! N I C E scenery along with the weather (which was a bit hazy I admit)!! The Trees were in full bloom and just stunning!! Interestingly enough they grew mostly on the western side of the Pass area, wonder why!?
Made tracks and dodged another idiot on the road - and eventually made good time for Greymouth. Stopped at the local info center - and got some brochures @ badges!!! Walked around Greymouth for a bit - saw the new Miners memorial on the river front / failed to see the NEW Monteiths bar, and eventually made our way back to near the info center. Sunday - and all the local shops are closed - still typical of NZ small town living. No sign of tourism in Grymouth yet. Stopped at Countdown for some supplies (pizza and fermented grapes - mainly) and headed towards Barrytown which is another 20-30 minute drive north of Greymouth. Lots more opportunities for pics stops - but decided they keep for another day. Found Robin and Steve's place and collected the key and drove remaining distance to the cottage - very nice and rustic. Now sitting in the late afternoon sun and enjoying the fermented grapes and looking forward to the pizza and a chill down. Will stroll to the beach at 9pm and watch the sun set on the western side of the island!!
Up early tomorrow and down to Hokitika and the "Walk in the Tree-tops" and other sights to be seen. Meant to say - Cottage is not repeat not in cellphone range and there is no Internet connection, but there is a sky-decoder - so we can watch the news BUT are incommunicado with the rest of the world!! Total Bliss.

Austrian Bed and Breakfast in Kiwiland .

From the Facebook account:

January 1

The rate things are going (with folks saying "we are coming to NZ" ) we are considering opening a Bed and Breakfast . . . :)

    Jon-e Murnane, Gemma Welch and Wilfried Mayr like this.
    
        Bryan Lewis:  I'll have the floor for joti, beds now sound too expensive.
        ME:     lol - u planning on sleep DURING Joti down here???
        Bryan Lewis:   Well before?
        ME:    okies - there is space in the garage - right next to 50 computers!
        Bryan Lewis:   Does a taxi come provided if i bring, coffee, chocolate and
                   ho *coughs* ney?
        ME:    Nutella will guarantee a pick up
        ME:    I goes into garage and dusts of the old Tuk tuk . . . . ^^
        ME:    Anyone coming in from "oi oi oi" country A N D bringing a 5kg jar of
                   Nutella is automatically upgraded to a 4 wheel motorised version of
                   a car!! 

January 12

The bed and breakfast idea seems to be working - already entertaining 2 young people from Austria . . . . Will need to add tour-guide to the job description!!

    Su Macann, Mustard Maurice Mushka, Jon-e Murnane, Wilfried Mayr,
    Katherine Reed, Gemma Welch and Dees Bokmans like this.
   
        Wilfried Mayr      :) :) :) :)
        Katherine Reed   I'll stay :)

January 19

Turns out that the Bed and Breakfast idea is now really taking off! I got my cousin coming in April. This time I will see her more than the 1.5 hour I have seen her so far in my entire life.

Austrian Bed and Breakfast in Kiwiland - post script

hmmm as promised below are some pictures of the original haunts of the (then) young intrepid traveller!! (Thanks Sara for emailing them!!)


Fairhaven - as it is still known.  Myself - I had the task of washing all the windows from the inside . .  and outside at one stage.  Actually that particular building is going soon to be demolished and will make way for a new development in aged care.







Wesley complex near Hagley Park- the old house is under a heritage protection order and the developer could do only a teeny-weeny amount of work in converting the house back into flats! The big structure attached and behind is new and had to be designed so as to "blend in".  Hmmmmmm  Actually this one seems to have survived the earthquakes very well.



Well let's see - there used to be no second story on when we lived there.  Lounge at the far left corner and back of the building and the front corner was his room and the front right corner our bedroom and the lounge is on the other side - along with the essentials of toilet / shower / washroom.  It was also un-insulated - so got cold in winter = nothing that a good coal fire could not cure! Ahhh those where the days in Christchurch when you could still have an open fire with good ol' westcoast coal to heat your house! actually - wonder where they put the staircase in this configuration.  From memory it was a tiny space to start with.


Well - That's all Folks (bugs Bunny)
Have fun


 

Short hop to Kaikoura

Kaikoura is a lovely seaside town - famous for it's crayfish and general fishing industry. Today was "Sarah day" and having decided to visit Kaikoura we got going at around 10am. Traffic a bit chaotic. Still we got there in good time. First stop the local info center where we walked in and straight back out again and went in search for a local cafe for a light lunch for the two bears and breakfast for the two young travelers. Having quenched our hunger we made tracks to the Kaikoura Peninsula walk way. Saw lots of Rata and Pohutukawa in flower along the way. Still learning which is which but getting better in picking them.   There are two possible routes to start with - and we perhaps foolishly went over the top to begin with.  Never-mind the views where really stunning and offered lots of opportunity  for photo-stops.  It was also a hot boiling day - made worse by the lack of wind and the grass reflecting back some heat.  Sweat was pouring of our backs - which I guess helped work of the pounds from some late lunches and previous nights pavlova!! Looking down from the top you could see various seals lounging around and we did have the opportunity to go down to the 'alternative' if non-official walkway later on. There are at various places some signs up that explain about the history and rock formation of the place, including the fauna and flora.  The area has been raised due to earth upheavals at various times - the most recent being about 1-3 millions years ago - the flat bits on the sea floor.  We longingly looked at the clear and invitingly blue coloured water and decided to go down to it and take a paddle.  Normally the sea around Kaikoura is quite cold - but here due to the flat nature and only 2-3 feet deep - it warmed up nicely in the sunshine.  Mamabear can be seen sampling the water and enjoying the view.  No seals or other wildlife came anywhere near so that was a relief. In the meantime I enjoyed snapping this picture of the cliff face we stayed under and managed to get the sun just poking through without ruining the rest of the picture.  The signs on the beginning of the walk way do warn that the tide needs watching as it will come in and almost cut you off.  We ended up having to get our feet wet and climb over some rocks and cliff faces to get back to the starting point - which provided some hilarity and angst at the same time.  Nothing to dangerous on todays efforts - but I would not want to be trapped with a raging easterly swell.  Yes says Sara - I made it out without getting my feet wet!!  Having spent most of the energy from our lunch on walking, it was back into town for a coffee and a drink.  While that was consumed I managed to go and find some cloth badges - including - yes folks  - including a newly minted version for Kaikoura badge -  which will find it's way on to my camp-blanket.  Most satisfying and once again proofing that you had to be a Johnny on the spot person.  By that stage it was getting towards the evening and having enjoyed the sun and warmth we needed to make a decision - should we stay here and have dinner here and be back  home late or go now and have dinner at home - well - thats a no-brainer really - we  decided to stay and enjoy what's left of the day.  So we headed north in search of the St Oswald's Church which was built in 1927 by Mr and Mrs Charles Murray in memory of their son Charles. However we weren't to sure how far north it is from Kaikoura so stopped at a local bay and enjoyed the evening sun with the cousins enjoying a game of knock down the stones  with varying degree of success.  Probably just as well as we did not go and look for the church - google map shows it near Kekerengu which is a lot further north then Mamabear had remembered. 
www.Kekerengu.html  Funny thing is - I also forgot it had what would have to be the worlds smallest Railway station.  Bearly enough for one person to be in it.
 The  beach near the church though is very nice indeed and well worth a visit. Saw a train going past us - and the low rumbling noise it generated reminded us very much of the noise we had heard during the 7.1 earthquake in Christchurch. Back into town for a much needed dinner and as Moritz well knows - Kaikoura is a Maori word which can be translated as follows Kai = Food and Koura = lobster (or seafood).  After dinner it was time to head home - literally drove into the sunset - nice going. 


 





Looking down to the spot where we ended up sampling the water and enjoyed the rest.  Notice the tide still being out? By the time we left it was right up









Looks cold - but it wasn't - really!

Austrian Bed and Breakfast in Kiwiland

A long time ago in the dark-ages, a intrepid traveller landed on our shores and was in need of some TLC and well - other things.  He stayed with us in Christchurch for a year - 6 month of which we had the pleasure of housing him eg. he flatted with us.  Just prior to him coming here his Nephew Moritz was born - so we saw everything through his eyes.  Said nephew is a fine young man now and is also touring the world - along with is cousin - who both managed to be in the same time and space in New Zealand, and thanks to the "encouragement" of their Uncle they dropped by, for a couple of days.  First day was a "Moritz" day - activities of his choosing.
I had to be at work in the morning - but Mamabear had the day of and so first up they went to the Antarctic Center where they enjoyed the penguins and chill room and all other stuff relating to the Ice.  Christchurch is the staging post for many nations to fly down to the Antartic and do whatever study or research they do there.  The Center acts as  tourist attraction along with an educational aspect.  Seems Sara got boosebumps once she experienced the windchill factor room (minus 20 degrees). From there they picked me up from work and we headed into town for a light lunch.  The first place of choice was closed due to earthquake risk - so trundeled along or through Hagley Park to the Antigua boatsheds - where a really good and late lunch had been enjoyed in the sunshine.  From there it was back to the car via the rosegarden section of our Botanical Gardens and we did a 'let's see Wilfrieds old haunts tour' !! So we stopped at old Wesley - which has since been sold to a developer and changed shape a little bit (the original houses are still there though) to take a photo and sold a story or two.  From there to the place we used to live in Suva street.  Must have looked weird standing outside on the road and taking a picture.  Place had at one time burned on the inside but the mainstructure was still there - since then the owner added more room's on top of the house!! After this we headed to Brighton Beach - which was very windy with a chilly easterly - almost southerly coming of the sea.  Lots of white caps. The really weird thing was that the tide was up - and we have NEVER seen so little space between the dunes and the sea. Also there was a lot of debris lying round from the stuff that got washed out to sea from the swollen rivers - which came about the norwestcoast rains falling in the Alps. There was a news story of a "Wall of Water' coming down the Waimakiriri river - but nothing was ever shown on any news later in the day.  Suffice to say - when it rains in the Alps the river-water levels can raise by 1-3 meters in the space of half an hour. Anyhow I was talking to the life guard on return walk and mentioned the tide and his take was that it now regularly comes up right up to the dunes, and his view was, that it had something to do with the recent earthquakes.  Seemed silly - until we remembered that the land around Brighton and eastern suburbs have reportedly dropped 50cm - 1 meter, which would explain the higher then normal tide leves.  Hmmmmmm
From there we went around the ring route and up the Port Hills to the House of Takehe. Also closed due to earthquake risk. Seems during driving round town we mentioned the Shakes quite a bit.  Still we got a good view of the town and the outlaying 'Burbs. Back down the hill and a stopover at Fairhaven (another obligatory photo and story told) and it was time for home and a chinwag.  After some thoughts and discussion it was decided to go to Kaikoura tomorrow. Inbetween that we had a Pavlova for Dessert - and we hear that a certain more maturer Austrian is a expert Pav-maker.  We are looking forward to tasting one of his creations next time he visits us!! (no pressure)









The Tide was still coming in and had another 3-4 meters to go.











So if we row a boat in THAT direction - we would - urm eventually hit Chile?? Yup!!

Short hop to Akaroa and back

 

 

Seeing we are on holiday and needed to get out of the house in order to avoid 'cabin-fever' we always had it in our mind to hop over the Port Hills to Akaroa.  The town is a nice quaint little place and has a rather unique position in NZ history, as it was originally settled by the French.  Their claim to sovereignty (to the French)

did not last long and the town soon became part of the NZ / England colony setup. However it is something they still make a big thing about - especially now with the tourists coming.  So the original street names are all in French and lots of French flags are flying etc.
With Lyttelton being out of action as a suitable harbour (due to the recent earthquakes and the repairs needed for pier etc) the cruise ships now come to Akaroa harbour and gorge anything from 2-3500 people onshore - most who will go on to other places in the South Island. This in a town that at best has 500 residents living there. Some tourists though stay in the town and go for walks / shopping sprees etc.  I must have been looking the part as we were asked 3 times if I came from the boat.  I mean DO I LOOK like a tourist??? ^^   Honestly!!  Anyway our lunch was very nice and we didn't mind the crowds and throngs and had a great day. You may not see it in the pictures but we had spill over showers from the storm that hit the Westcoast and made walking and taking pictures a bit of fun.  In between these showers there was some really nice blue sky and really warm temperatures.  Turns out the weather did do some significant damage to the Coast. They had 500ml (or more in some parts) for the last 24 hours. Roads where cut by slips or bridges washed out and a vital fibre optic cable was also cut - so some folks had no internet / telephone. Anyway - the other reason we came over was to spot the Pohutukawa trees in Akaroa.  Some where in flower and we were sure a tad later flowering then last year.
They make for a interesting back drop to "The Diamond Princess" cruise ship!!
This however sparked a conversation if the trees are Southern Rata instead.  Indeed they do look very similar and are hard to distinguish.  Must go and research that in a mo - already asked the question on the Crimson Project Facebook page.  --->    www.facebook.com/Project-Crimson-Trust

There is also this blog ---->  thecraigcliff.blogspot.co.nz/difference-between rata.html

which gives a reasonable description!  It's a starting point for a learning curve for me!!  The Local DOC site needs a bit more work - but is also a good starting point --->   www.doc.govt.nz/conservation/native-plants/rata/

Anyhow - we had a local tradition for tea that day - they do catch and prepare a very nice Akaroa Blue Cod - fish and the one and only Fish and Chip shop recently re-opened after being to heavily damaged in the earthquakes and needed bulldozing!  The Fish is VERY nice to eat - nice white flesh and really light in texture.  Yumnmy. Sadly - the price was a bit inflated - not sure that NZ $9 is warranted - but then the tourists can't get enough of them - so yeah they are making hay while the sun is shining- so to speak.  After this it was time to head back home to Christchurch - in the rain which had well and truly set in now.  The boys tell us they had some thunder and lightning - not that they could see the lightning - but they could hear it - another rarity for Christchurch.

Have fun!