Friday, February 15, 2013

A trip to the beautiful Westcoast of New Zealand, Fr 15 Feb

Friday, February 15, 2013 1
oldbearnews editor Holiday is nearly over  :( 

Leisurely morning breakfast, then we cleaned the house having brought in some sand from on of our trips home. Packed the car and drove of towards Greymouth.  No urgent rush to get home - as long as we are back for dinner - our boys would be happy. (they are cooking for us)
Stopped yet again at the local Info center - had seen a flyer for a greenstone carver who is the great-great-something-son of one of the early Maori chiefs. I wanted to catchup with him to see if he would take youth on a field trip and do some carving.  Met his wife instead and had good chat about greenstone mattters.  

From there it was back to a petrol station to tank up for the 300 + km back home and we decided to visit the local beach and have picnic lunch there.   
Hot sunny day and lots of wave action.  The beach at Greymouth is a shingle beach type - not a drop of sand to be seen - so for a start the waves against the beach make a lot more noise.  It is also a steep-ish beach - so no lounging around  or getting feet wet - let alone swimming.  Actually it can suck you out into the Sea if you not careful. Had some of the Salami we picked up from Blackball earlier in the week. Yummy flavour - and seeing mamabear is not in favour of it - there remained more of it for me to enjoy!  Eventually had to say good-bye - very very tempted to stay and sit in the sun till sundown.  Had un-eventful drive to Arthurs Pass.  The air was a bit clearer - so stopped and took a handful more pictures of the Southern Rata.  While there, 2 or 3 cheeky Keas roamed around the car park.  They are our alpine parrots and are true clowns - but make no mistake - they are also EXTREMELY  intelligent.  They can solve difficult puzzles and get their food from almost anywhere and know how to work together. One learns from the other by observing and develop the team work from there.  Many a car owner lost some rubber seal from doors and hubcaps and - hehehe - very recently, one unsuspecting tourist lost his cash (as one cheeky Kea entered his car via a open door window and opened his wallet left lying of the dashboard and took out his paper money leaving him stranded with no cash - it made the news papers). One other chap once lost his car keys . . . . .

Back on the road and made good time for Christchurch - eventually getting to the outskirts around 4.30pm-ish.  Saw a sign advising how far to Picton and I said coolly to mamabear - 'Hmmm - I don't feel like going home - we can make Picton for late dinner - fancy a drive up there??"  Sadly reason and sanity (AND the need to EARN more cash) meant we did the decent thing and went home instead.  About 10 km from home we met the first set of traffic lights.  Sigh - back to civilization.
We have done 1598 km of travel and that was the first traffic light we'd seen since we left Christchurch.  There are none on the  Westcoast (except one recently installed at Hawks Craig - near Westport / Buller - an ugly one-lane only  turn around a corner with no direct clear sight - so now that makes cornering that particular stretch of road much safer).  

Also have to say - in all that time we saw only one police car on the road!! Probably just as well - *grins*

Recently (at the beg of February) there has been the famous annual 'Coast to Coast' race where you run / cycle / kayak  from the Kumara Beach on the Westcoast to the Sumner Beach on the East coast.  It is a long hard day of slog and guts.   However I am also acutely aware of many doing the opposite - watching the sunrise at Christchurch then drive over to the Coast and watch the sunset at some beach over there.  If you do this in Summer you possible would need to sleep on the coast before heading home as sunrise is around 4.30 am and Sunset can be as late as 9 pm.  Then again if you do this in mid winter ….

Oh and by way of information:
Barrytown is a town in the West Coast region of New Zealand's South Island and it sits on State Highway 6 and is 21 km north of Runanga.
Punakaiki is 16 km further north.
The town is near the southern end of Pakiroa Beach.
The population of Barrytown and its surrounds was 225 in the 2006 Census, an increase of 33 from 2001.
1991 Census - 213,  1996 Census - 216,  2001 Census- 195,  2006 Census - 225.
Wonder what it will be this year??
It has a full primary school (years 1-8) with a roll of hmmm 12 children in year 2008


Barrytown was settled in the 1860s and was a centre for gold dredging.

Ah well - that's the end of our trip.
Time to save more dough for the next trip.
Time to sort through the 600 plus pictures taken and ENJOY my own Bed.  Sleeping in your own bed - like they say in the Master-card advertisement - PRICELESS!!

Have fun


 bear print

Thursday, February 14, 2013

A trip to the beautiful Westcoast of New Zealand, Thur 14 Feb

Thursday, February 14, 2013 0
oldbearnews editor
Another lazy morning!!

Hmm, sleeping in seems to be getting the norm now. Anyhow there is no rush as high tide was not until 2pm-ish so had brekkie from 8-9 am. Drove up to Punakaki and first stopped at the info center to check up on the Pororari river walk. It is a nice and gentle graded walk along the river with lots of ferns / red and white Beech and Nikau Palms lining the edges of the river bed - along with the odd "im-mature" 100 year old Rimu sapling.


It takes about 1hr and some 20 minutes one way - but that is not allowing for the photo stops. It is a track we often take our scouts and teach them planning a hiking expedition complete with meals and gas cookers and water and weights and who carries what etc. At the end of the track you pretty much have three options:
One - just to simply return
Two - return to Punakaki via another track (1hr 15min)
Three - visit the Cave creek area and then return or walk out at the Cave Creek walkway (which puts you further north from Punakaki. We took the easy option - only because we wanted to get back to where we had the car parked for us. In-between we sat in the river bed - where Mamabear got her feet wet yet again (seems to be a habit of hers to get feet wet at any watery tributary) and just enjoyed the peace and quietness. The turning point also contains yet another swing bridge and this one does rather swing. It is a good place to play the game of the Farmer who had a Wolf and a cabbage and a Goat and needing to take all three to the market but can take (due to safety reasons) only one item at a time across the bridge. Of course you cannot leave the goat and the cabbage alone together as the goat would eat the greenery and neither can you leave the Wolf and the goat alone - for obvious reasons. H O W would you get all three across without loosing one of your sale-able items??? Funny to see the scouts run forwards and backwards across the bridge trying to solve this puzzle!!

We were totally alone with water / air and sound - no other people present and most surprising even the local sand-flies declined to visit us. Also saw many a times some good reflections on the water.  Naturally took lots more pictures!!

All to soon we had to make tracks again and head back - not wanting to miss out on high tide at the Rocks and we did need some lunch. While walking back to the carpark we came across at least 6 sets of couples - not one of them a Kiwi. It was like someone opened a nest or something. At the Cafe at Punakaki a Bus came - ( a regular daily feature) and disgorged 30 something young tourists. Soon the place was crowded. There are only three commercial places at Punakaki - a genuine Cafe, a gift shop with a coffee/cake addition and the local Info center with postcards gifts etc AND acting as the local DOC office (Department of Conservation). We bought a postcard and wrote 10 or so words - then posted it to Salzburg - and then it was time to see the pancake rocks. By now the tide was right up and that is the best of time to see them. The only other time it will be better is if there was / is a southerly or westerly storm with decent storm surges. Anyhow - for the first time in many many visits the blow holes -well - actually blew!!




Good stuff - took lots and lots of pictures and a couple of videos which I will need to upload to You-tube. Lots of 'uhhhhss' and 'aaaahhhhssss'  coming form the plentiful crowd - obviously appreciating what spectacle mother nature provided. We could have stayed longer - but we had to get to Greytown for some supplies and then pay Robin and Steve a visit. Robin and Steve are the Westcoast knife makers and myself have been there 4 times now - (I have three knives) and we often take scouts there for a long weekend. Reason we had to see them was to pay our bill for the "Doll house". While there we met the 12 people who made their own knifes. Little did we know that two of them would freedom-camp later down at the beach and we would meet again. Back to house at 6 pm and a late dinner – then back down to beach to last westcoast sunset (which turned out to be another write-off) however as previously mentioned we met 2 knife carving people. Had drinkies there and nice long chat. Time to go home and contemplate next days drive home to Christchurch and the reality of needing to go back to work (for Mamabear) sigh

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Wednesday, February 13, 2013

A trip to the beautiful Westcoast of New Zealand, Wed 13 Feb

Wednesday, February 13, 2013 0
oldbearnews editor
Woke rather late - around 8 - 8.30 am so had a lazy morning and late breakfast.
Having done several hundred K's yesterday, we decided to get some petrol in Greytown and then headed past Hoktika towards Ross - a former gold mining town.  Ross was established in the 1860s, during the West Coast Gold Rush, where it became an important centre for miners. At its largest, the town had around 2,500 inhabitants, but the population declined after local gold-fields were depleted in the early 1870s. Quartz was occasionally mined on Mount Greenland, a nearby ridge, but little more gold was found until two miners discovered a large 3.1-kilogram nugget in 1909, which was later named the "Honourable Roddy Nugget", after Roderick McKenzie, the Minister for Mines at the time.  The town still has original buildings from its hey days and we had previously visited and walked several of the old tailings  / sluices and raceway (water) tracks available.  This time it was more of a refresher visit. Not much had indeed changed since we been there last. Walked across the road from the Info center and saw the local green-stone carver Steve Maitland  ( --->  www.jadeartross.com  )  He is another one of the typical local westcoast caracters and we had a long chat about all things relating to Greenstone and Maori rules / customs etc.   Suffice to say he also does some VERY nice carvings - and totally out of our price range. After that we did some Gold panning - where you get given a panning pan with some gravel in it and a "pre-measured" amount of gold to "find" along with one tiny bit of greenstone. Not wanting to visit Shanty-town where you can do the same we decided to "pan" for ourselves  here - and hey presto - surprise surprise we did find some GOLD - all $10 worth. YESSFeeling rich we decided to spend our ill gotten gains at the local "ruddy nugged cafe" were we sat at a solid rimu table - 3 inches thick and 1 square meter.  Nice - and so was the food.  
We heard about the Hokitika George and decided to check this out - so drove back up towards Hokitika and eventually found the George!! It is famous for its blue water - same color as the Lake Tekapo  (due to the Glacial grind grinding up the stones into fine dust). It is also very scenic and had LOTS of Sandflies.  There is at least one Lookout point and yet another Swing-bridge to cross.  From there through a bit of natural bush all the way down to the water itself. We hung around as long as we could, with the anti-sand-fly repellent working only so far.  We even gave some away to the young couple from Chicago, who had no idea what they were about to find out!!  Mamabear then being corralled to being a photographer for yet another touristy couple!! I  'recon there is a market for a 'on-spot' camera man.  Wonder if how much they would pay for a good quality shot of the nice couples in front of the touristy places.  hmmmm Anyhow after the sand-flies had their luncheon meal, we decided to stop on the   Kotorangi incident memorial spot we had zoomed past on the way to the gorge.  From the  Wikipedia file --  on 8 October 1941 Graham confronted a neighbour with a rifle. Later that morning Constable Edward Best, 27, attempted to discuss the matter with Graham but backed off with Graham pointing two rifles out the window at him. Best retreated to Hokitika for back-up and returned to the farm with Sergeant William Cooper, 43, and Constables Frederick Jordan, 26, and Percy Tulloch, 35. Graham fired at them as they approached the house, and Sergeant Cooper and Constables Jordan and Tulloch were killed instantly, Cooper having at least four bullet wounds in his body. Constable Best was also shot and died three days later.  Graham also shot an agricultural instructor, George Ridley, who came to his door, and fled his house. He returned the next evening and killed home guardsmen Richard Coulson and Gregory Hutchison in a firefight. More than 100 police and army personnel searched dense bush for Graham for 12 days, with orders to shoot on sight if they found Graham still armed. On 20 October an injured Graham was shot by Auckland Constable James Quirke as he walked out of the bush carrying his rifle. He died the next day in hospital. Constable Quirke reported Graham told him he was intending to give up that night.  This and a further incident in Lower Hutt eventually led to a change in police Tactics.  A sobering moment in a beautiful spot! On way home we stopped at the local supermarket for some much needed supplies to  'hmm'  actually cook the first meal on our holiday.  Having been told about the   Rapahoe beach we stopped there and spent some time looking for green-stone pebbles.  Found lots of nice stones - but I am sure they are not green.  Some do however have a nice grain / colour!!  Still - it was a nice relaxing long walk on a pebble beach!!The drive home was interrupted with picture stops at various places we had previously earmarked for a return visit if and when the weather was better and / or less salt laden air!  Dinner was cooked and consumed along with the usual crushed grapes.

 From there it was back down to the Beach at Barrytown for the hopefully  better looking sunset.  Sadly still clouds on the horizon so no sun right at the bottom hitting the sea - but being spectacular the 14-20 minutes prior to that.







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Tuesday, February 12, 2013

A trip to the beautiful Westcoast of New Zealand, Tuesday 12 Feb

Tuesday, February 12, 2013 0
oldbearnews editor
Waking news – seems we -(ok-ok,  some of us) - need a new Pope with the current geriatric version deciding to break new ground since some 600 years and 'retire' from the office due to ill health. Wonder if there is a message in there for (Queen Lizzie?) some of  us too? Another point to ponder is the fact that yesterday we saw some Rimu trees near the Treetop walk that would have been already growing when the last - or that should be now the second to last pope resigned some 600 years back. Rimu can grow anything from 700-1000 years old. It is lovely hardwood timber with a VERY nice grain and is no longer being logged (probably just as well) but this writer is missing the opportunity to work with the timber and make NICE outdoor furniture or other stuff.  Rimu used to be logged and was used mostly for house building - timber framing - up until the 1980's.

Mamabear having showered was picking up my glasses and having cleaned them no less twice was wondering why her eye-sight wasn't sharp and still out of focus. If I hadn’t needed them for driving I might have let her wear them for a bit longer and see how long it would have taken her to work out that she had been wearing the wrong lenses . . . ^^

We knew it is a long drive (not so much the K's but the time it takes to get there) due to the fact that parts of the road leading to Karamea are very windy to drive along – so average speed through this part more like 40-50km/h!!! Interestingly enough after you leave the major towns on the Coast there is a often a easily missed and somewhat small sign warning you of NO petrol for another 90 or however many kilometers left to the next petrol station. Petrol can be bought in Karamea – then Westport – then Greytown of course and Hokitika – then at Fox (of glacier fame) town and after that in Haast (not sure about that part) - or at last in Wanaka – so the distances in-between are large indeed!  You are also out of cellphone range and often literally in the middle of now where – so fingers crossed you do not run out of petrol or have a major breakdown requiring assistance! It does mean that you need to know your tanks limit and it is often better to top up then running low/out some place – for it is a LONG hike back for emergency rations.

Karamea itself promised a lot when first settled in 1860's with Gold-miners being the first settlers– but the Murchison earthquake in 1929 resulted in the natural harbour being silted up (called Liquefaction -something folks in Christchurch now know about) and cut the road link by two years and that put paid to the development of the town. The road down to Westport being to arduous at best of the times and takes about 1.5 hours. Even now it is a long drive and the two things that keep the place (population 600) afloat is the traffic generated from the world famous Heaphy track and dairying. Although it would be interesting to see how a milk tanker negotiates that particular road!!
The Heaphy track itself is about 82 km long and can be walked between 3-5 days.  It is suitable for all ages – and the only care needs to be taken at one section of the track where it is tidal and an alternative “high tide” crossing is provided. It can be walked from both ends but usually folks start near Collingwood / Nelson way and walk out at Karamea. This just means you will need to have organized your return trip to the  point at Collingwood where you left your car– a 6 hour return drive!! The nice part is too that if you drive up north from Westport, after Karamea and at the beginning (or end) of the Heaphy track -  you have  r u n  o u t   of road to drive on!!!  From there  it is only one way – back!!  During the last few days we also noted the large amount of sea-spray being whipped up by wind and waves– being at times thick enough to make it look like driving into thick fog!! We eventually got to Karamea and had early lunch at cafe. We had planned to walk to the Moira Gate Arch and Mirror Tarn tracks.  Turns out that is another hours drive from Karamea then a total of 1.5 hours walk and then an hour drive back to Karamea. Which was just to long  (bearing in mind the further 3-4 hours drive back to Barrytown on top as well) – and so made two changes to the planned itinerary for the day  – one being the resolution to come back and spend some nights here in Karamea in order to fully explore the surroundings and also to be walking the Nikau Palm track (short Loop) instead --- only to get our feet ankle deep wet. Part of the track is partially covered by incoming tidal waves. Walk itself very nice – lots of Nikau Palms (whence it's name), and deep dark green bush!! After that we sat on the beach for a bit – got another wave coming in on the spring tide and feet (or should that be knees??)  now well and truly wet. The return drive to Karamea included taking with us some pesky local sand-flies!! We stopped at the local postal centre / come outdoor/ come garden shop and – FOUND yet another badge (again sort of locally made) and posted a post card to Oma. After picking up an Ice cream, back via the “short” hop to Westport were we took the opportunity to inquire about the newly developed Denniston coal attraction.

--> http://www.denniston.co.nz/

Seems now you can enter a mine for some 200meters and do a hands on coal extraction! Cost – do not ask!! Mamabear decided she needed to see the Sea-lions colony so we stopped over at Seal colony at Cape Foulwind - a leisurely 10 minute drive from Westport town. Saw two sets of juveniles frolicking freely on the rocks – but not much else due to the fact that the grown ups were all at sea feasting on whatever fish they could!

The drive home from there proved interesting, with (having been overtaken by a car containing a German tourist) and then following the Michael Schumacher wannabe down to the Pancake rocks! Eventually made it safely to home base at Barrytown where we had left over dinner and cake and the obligatory walk on the beach for yet another cloudy and no sun sunset!


Post script - found these on the Web and on various brochures -



Karamea offers a variety of short walks, catering for different age groups and varying levels of fitness. There will be something to suit you.
Birdwatchers Estuaries We have several estuaries in and around Karamea. They are well worth a visit. Bird life is plentiful, with pied stilts, black swans, oyster catchers, blue herons, and occasionally a white heron. You can walk for miles, and follow small tidal inlets, but watch the tide.
Flagstaff (1 hour plus) Via the road to the aerodrome. Turn left at the junction to go down to the beach, known locally as the Flagstaff. Prior to the 1929 Murchison Earthquake, which caused the harbour to silt up, Karamea had a busy port. 60 minutes plus for a workout round the sandspit! Sea and rivermouth access. Fishing in season.
Karamea Riverbank and Estuary Walk (45 minutes plus) An enjoyable evening stroll, beginning behind the Domain, or via the river access at the end of Wharf Road. Follow along the river down to the mouth. Tide permitting, you can check out the birdlife and return through the estuary walkway, linking up with the end of Ray Street.
Big Rimu Tree (45 minutes return) This track is a short walk through lush native bush to a large rimu tree. The track starts 7 kilometres up the Umere Road.
Lake Hanlon (20 minutes one way) 20 kilometres south of Karamea a signpost on the Highway indicates the short walk to this tranquil and picturesque lake.
South Terrace Zig Zag Track (60 minutes return) This track was originally used by the early settlers, and starts approx 2.5km up the Arapito side of the Karamea River. It takes you up onto the South Terrace. Two lookouts give great views north of Karamea, and of the river flats and farm land. If you continue along the old roadline, you will find the old cemetery that was used by the first European settlers on the South Terrace. Carry on walking past the old cemetery, and you will come to the end of the road which gives access from the South Terrace. Mountain biking is not permitted on this Heritage track.



About 45 minutes drive (25 km) north of Karamea, the Oparara Basin boasts impressive limestone formations and is surrounded by truly magnificent bush, and is home to the Powelliphanta – carnivorous snails which are up to 70mm across. Sturdy footwear is recommended for exploring this wonderland. Access to the Basin is via a gravel road. Care should always be taken on the drive in.
The road is not suitable for large motorhomes or buses, and cycles, for safety reasons.

Honeycomb Hill Caves & Arch

Karamea is home to the Honeycomb Hill Caves — world famous for their collection of Moa bones and other extinct bird species. This cave system contains notable limestone formations in its 15 kilometres of passages. The caves are protected, and ACCESS IS BY GUIDED TOUR ONLY. A guided kayak trip to the Honeycomb Hill Arch is also available. Customised tours by arrangement.

Oparara Basin Walks

Public Access from the Oparara Carpark
Oparara Arch (25 minutes one way) 1km Take the left hand track just before the Oparara Bridge. This is a well formed track following the Oparara River to the larger of the limestone arches. Blue ducks can sometimes be seen playing in the rapids.
Moria Gate Arch (30 minutes one way) 1.2km Beginning at the Oparara carpark, this track takes you through beautiful rainforest and moss-covered trees to a very picturesque arch stretching over the Oparara River.
Mirror Tarn (10 minutes one way) 600m Turn right at the sign just past the Oparara Bridge and follow the track upriver to a small but picturesque lake tucked away in the bush.
Moria Gate/Mirror Tarn Loop Track (1 hour 30 mins round trip) 4.1 km An easy-access easy-grade loop track linking these 2 attractions. Explore down under the Arch, then continue on over the top of Moria Gate (try counting the paving stones, where moa have obviously been before you!) and loop around the terrace to come back out at the carpark via Mirror Tarn.
Oparara Valley Track (5hrs one way) 14km A stunning new full day walk, through ancient stands of rimu and kahikatea forest, down the Oparara River. Links up with the Fenian Track and comes out at the carpark in the Fenian. A reasonable level of fitness is required.
The Valley Track has been built and is maintained by the Oparara Valley Trust, as a walking track only. Please respect the purpose for which the track has been built. The Oparara Basin is in the Kahurangi National Park, and NO mountain biking is permitted in National Parks.
Oparara Valley Track to Sunshine Flat Shelter (1hr 30min one way) 4.5km Leaving the Oparara carpark, walk partway down the Valley Track for just a taste of the primeval rainforest to be found in the Oparara. Take a breather at the shelter and read the amazing story of how the track was constructed.
Crazy Paving & Box Canyon Caves (5 minutes one way) 100m Torches necessary. Continue 2.5km on past the Arch carpark to the Cave carpark. A short walk through the rainforest will take you to the Crazy Paving Cave (the first of the 2 caves), Cave spiders and cave wetas a specialty! Continue on the main track up the steps to the Box Canyon Cave and descend down steep stairs to the cave floor. This is a large open cave, with several limestone passages off to the sides.
K-Road Mountainbike and Walking Track About 10km into the Basin. The return trip is approximately 27 km long – graded as an easy to medium track. K–Road is wide enough for both the keen tramper & the enthusiastic mountain biker, and features areas of cut-over bush, exotic plantations, and fast regenerating native species, with some water features and several stunning views.

The Fenian

In the late 1860s miners began fossicking for gold in the Fenian, and cut a bridle track into the workings. Today we now enjoy a series of easy-access, easy-grade walking tracks into this area, through mixed beech/podocarp forest. A mecca for fungi foragers.

Fenian Walks

Walking Times and Distances are from the Fenian Carpark.
Fenian carpark to Sunshine Flat (3hr 30min one way) 9.5km Walk partway up the Fenian Track, branching off at the Junction to head up the Valley Track as far as Sunshine Flat shelter.
Sunshine Flat to Oparara Carpark (1hr 30min one way) 4.5km After a breather at Sunshine Flat, where you will be able to read up on the amazing story of how the track was constructed, continue along the Valley Track to come out at the Oparara Carpark via Moria Gate Arch.
Oparara Valley Track (5hrs) 14km A stunning new full day walk through ancient rainforest, up the Oparara River, and coming out at the Oparara Carpark. This walk and the above two require a reasonable level of fitness, as there are a few challenging switchbacks on the Valley Track.
The Fenian Track is part of the new Valley Track, connecting the Fenian area and the Oparara Basin, which was built by the Oparara Valley Trust as a walking track only. Please respect the purpose for which the track has been built. The Fenian is a Heritage Track in the Kahurangi National Park, and NO mountain biking is permitted in National Parks.
Maloneys Bluff (40min one way) 3.5km At 30 m above the river, the hard granite outcrop known as Maloneys Bluff is an excellent viewpoint to look northwards up the Oparara Valley
Fenian/Valley Tracks Junction (1 hr 15min one way) 4km Another 15 minutes along the Valley Track from the Junction will bring you out at Postal River
Fenian Caves Loop (1 hr 1.5km or 3hrs return from carpark, 5 kms) The Fenian Caves consist of three “open access” caves. A torch or headlight, and sturdy footwear, is essential. A helmet is recommended. Two of the caves are located beside the track, Miners Cave and Cavern Creek Cave. The loop track passes through Tunnel Cave, which is rough underfoot for some 80m. A reasonable level of fitness is required. Track best walked in a clockwise direction.
Fenian Gold Workings (1 hr 35min one way) 5km A track has been cut up the Fenian Creek to the site of the Fenian Goldworkings
Adams Flat (2 hrs one way) 7km An easy walk up the old heritage bridle track to the clearing now known as Adams Flat. Named after John Adams, an early settler/goldminer, who died and was buried at the goldworkings in 1882.
Adams Creek Water Race (2hr 40min one way) 8km Continue up past Adams Flat on a cut track to the Adams Creek goldworkings and dam site.




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Monday, February 11, 2013

A trip to the beautiful Westcoast of New Zealand, Monday 11 Feb

Monday, February 11, 2013 0
oldbearnews editor

Morning dawned – cloudy again. Made tracks down past Hokitika to the newest attraction a walk amongst the tree tops. You walk about 25-40 meters above ground on a steel platform and see the ancient Rimu / Kakitea / Miro Trees from equal height. Then there is this Central tower with 107 steps – round and round you go. If you suffer from Vertigo -- well you either out of luck or grit your teeth and hope for the best. You can also see and walk on the one cantilevered bit and enjoy scenery looking over the lake. It sways a bit so motion sickness folks might find it a bit daunting. In fact the whole structure has some flex in it and no doubt will rock and roll in a decent storm. Guess this is to allow for expansion / contraction during the heat/cold AND any earthquakes that may rumble by. The views itself are fantastic . Even on a cloudy day. It may pay to go and do this particular touristy thing on a clear winters day – then you can see the snow topped mountains in the background making for good images – a photographers dream. Check out their website and images along with the video!!  --->  http://treetopsnz.com/


On our visit they mountains where shrouded in cloud – so missed out there. The whole thing is a bit pricey – and you will need to allow 45-60 minutes on the walk itself. I am sure the attached cafe and shop are supporting this new investment.

From there we drove around the Lake, back via the state highway to another campsite and did the bellbird walk – a very short 10 min loop – minus any Bellbirds!! The sun came out and made for a hot gaze over the lake – a popular boating / swimming and camping spot.

Feeling a bit peckish we decided to head back to Hokitika and have lunch in one of Brush's MOST Favorite Cafe on the strip – The Cafe de La Paris. Decided to tease the lad and txt'ed the following – “You be so jealous” which immediately resulted in a phone call!!   ---->   http://www.cafedeparis.net.nz/CafeDeParis/Home.php

The 'light lunch' was followed by a walk to the beach where we hoped to see the annual beach craft. Every year the folks are invited to get creative with the drift wood and build something with nothing more then a bit of string – if that. The price winning entry for this year was a grand Steinway piano. Sadly the Spring tide had come up and washed away some of the entries already – it never lasts more then a week or so – weather and storms depending. Still what we saw was creative and very artistic / live-like. We took lots of pictures from the stuff that was left for display before the weather claimed the rest! Here can bee seen a Kiwi nesting in what would be a  cabbage tree!
In-between there was a Petrel chasing some seagulls – had difficulty keeping up with him in-flight and snap a good picture. You don't often see the Petrel onshore – they are the smaller cousins of the Albatross and usually sea bound. Mamabear enjoying the sun and waves from the sea crashing onshore (lots of rumbling noises).
 After this we strolled through the Metropolitan town of Hokitika (which turns out by our visits to the coast it must be our favorite town there) and went for a stroll up and down the short main-drag. One Greenstone shop very kindly donated a replacement string form my Greenstone teardrop pendant (which eventually had worn out the string after 10 years of continuous wear) so that was nice – only to find out that the other major (and some may say snobby) greenstone gallery offered a replacement for NZ $ 10. A quick stop at the local supermarket for apples and urm yeah that "liquid grape-juice" – was followed by incursion of a local nick-knack shop selling all sorts of stuff. It had a “alternate” flavor to it with second hand books and far east spiritual influence. Well folks – it was the ONLY yes only shop that sold any Hokitika badges. Turns out the where locally made and yes I got the last two ones. Due to the fact that they were local made (I guess by a mum on her singer) they were a tad more expensive then the others- but hey I am not complaining rather counting myself very lucky indeed. By this stage we had seen everything we wanted to see and do in Hokitika and it was time to head into Greymouth for more exploring – high on the list the newly opened Monteiths Brewery which offers guided tours and tasting sessions and – shall we say – some very unique men's urinals!! Had initial trouble finding the place – being at the wrong end of Herbert street – and once we got there we just missed one tour – so had a drink and waited for our turn! Guide trying very hard cracking many jokes selling the story. Tour very informative and you get the gist that local pride can still trump Auckland arrogance!! At the end of the tour everyone gets to 'pour' a small pint – which is not as easy as it looks.
 Mamabear doing very well as you can see.  I had a "Radler" beer - which is really a  light beer with a lemon flavour.  I am sure the European Radler is a half and half - beer / lemonade drink.  Please do correct me if my memory is proving to be wrong!! Vaguely remember also something about court-case and about naming rights - and this is still happening.   This was followed by dinner at the Bonzai Pizzeria were a large meal arrived and a fantastic garlic 'bread'. Got chatting to the only other eating customer- a local identity: Mick Collins. He certainly had a colourful life – Army / fishing / and is a renowned greenstone carver. Nothing like meeting the locals. Tanked up on petrol and found out that we have had 25 degrees C despite the many overcast periods and headed back to Barrytown cottage for a rest before heading down to the beach for the usual sunset – no luck - too many clouds – so strolled along the beach in search of greenstone instead– which we keep repeatedly being told, are there. Not sure about that. Sadly we also saw the mess the freedom campers are leaving behind. Wonder how they feel if I visit their country and leave my toilet stuff openly lying on the ground in their backyard???


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Sunday, February 10, 2013

A trip to the beautiful Westcoast of New Zealand

Sunday, February 10, 2013 0
oldbearnews editor
So the minions of this cave bear clan thought it was impossible to hit the road past 9am and no later. Had a crappy night with the dog across the road whining all night long and keeping me awake not to mention the Henry Ford put-put car noisily ambling past our house at around 2 am. Eventually woke (if that is what you can call it)  at 6.50am and listened to the news / had breakfast and packed and left the house at 9.25am. Yess - see it can be done!! Tanked and hit the road.

Drive non eventful - just some idiots on the road wanting to drive either right in the middle of the road or on the other side of the road altogether. Made Arthur's Pass just before lunch time and set of to the Devil's punchbowl falls - all of 131meter hike UP and total of 288 steps to get there (of course there are 288 steps back down as well). Mamabear huffing and puffing (and I could hear Percy's voice - yes I can, yes I can, yes I can!! I made it!!) At the top , surprise very lonely - no other people around- figures, we were there at lunchtime and so took lots of pics. The waterfall is stunning at the best of times and just grandiose after a decent rainfall.

Then back down to the car and our finger-food lunch, while we encountered lots of people coming up to the falls. Obligatory 'loo stop and we hit the road again - this time stopping at no less then two lookout points near Arthur's pass . Normally we breeze through - but we had time so made a point of checking out the sights. Again lots of pics taken











First stop - general lookout-point at Arthur's pass - near the viaduct. The pass is named after Sir Arthur Dudley Dobson (1841–1934), who led the first party of Europeans across the pass in 1864. The $25m Otira Viaduct, was opened by the end of 1999, and replaced one of the most insecure stretches of State Highway 73 between Arthur’s Pass and Otira. Its vulnerability was at its greatest over a 3 km portion from Peg Leg Creek to Candys Bridge, during which it climbed 65 m up from Peg Leg Flat over a major rock avalanche and scree slope before dropping 165m in a series of hairpin (and real scary) bends to the Candys Bridge site. Gradients were typically 13 percent and rise as high as 18 percent. In addition to the steep grades and tight corners, which restricted the length of any vehicle able to use the road to a 13m maximum ( so no Lorries / Trucks / Buses or camper-vans and certainly no towing of any kind - boats or caravans or trailers.) The overriding concern was the high risk of losing the road through erosion of the slip face below by weathering and the scour action of the Otira River. Thankfully through some very good engineering and willpower the Otira Viaduct was eventually built and opened. It has changed the way the west coast is functioning. All heavy goods had to be either shipped in or driven west via the Lewis Pass or indeed the southern Haast Pass with both adding a considerable cost in time and petrol. Now with the Viaduct providing easy access to the West-coast it has changed the amount of goods and services flowing across the Alps and it's certainly a contributer to a more free flowing economy. If you have the time, stop at the Information / DOC Center in Arthur's Pass and see the history / pictures of early travel and the story on how they build the Viaduct. It is breath taking just reading it. Anyhow - I am rambling - so lets move along. . . . 


Next stop was at the Candy bend and surprise surprise we saw LOTS and lots and lots of Southern RATA ( a brother to the Pohutukawa tree) in full flower. MORE pics were taken. Just as well we now have digital - would have burned through rolls and rolls of 35mm film!! N I C E scenery along with the weather (which was a bit hazy I admit)!! The Trees were in full bloom and just stunning!! Interestingly enough they grew mostly on the western side of the Pass area, wonder why!?
Made tracks and dodged another idiot on the road - and eventually made good time for Greymouth. Stopped at the local info center - and got some brochures @ badges!!! Walked around Greymouth for a bit - saw the new Miners memorial on the river front / failed to see the NEW Monteiths bar, and eventually made our way back to near the info center. Sunday - and all the local shops are closed - still typical of NZ small town living. No sign of tourism in Grymouth yet. Stopped at Countdown for some supplies (pizza and fermented grapes - mainly) and headed towards Barrytown which is another 20-30 minute drive north of Greymouth. Lots more opportunities for pics stops - but decided they keep for another day. Found Robin and Steve's place and collected the key and drove remaining distance to the cottage - very nice and rustic. Now sitting in the late afternoon sun and enjoying the fermented grapes and looking forward to the pizza and a chill down. Will stroll to the beach at 9pm and watch the sun set on the western side of the island!!
Up early tomorrow and down to Hokitika and the "Walk in the Tree-tops" and other sights to be seen. Meant to say - Cottage is not repeat not in cellphone range and there is no Internet connection, but there is a sky-decoder - so we can watch the news BUT are incommunicado with the rest of the world!! Total Bliss.



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