Waking news – seems we -(ok-ok, some of us) - need a new Pope with the current geriatric version deciding to break new ground since some 600 years and 'retire' from the office due to ill health. Wonder if there is a message in there for (Queen Lizzie?) some of us too? Another point to ponder is the fact that yesterday we saw some Rimu trees near the Treetop walk that would have been already growing when the last - or that should be now the second to last pope resigned some 600 years back. Rimu can grow anything from 700-1000 years old. It is lovely hardwood timber with a VERY nice grain and is no longer being logged (probably just as well) but this writer is missing the opportunity to work with the timber and make NICE outdoor furniture or other stuff. Rimu used to be logged and was used mostly for house building - timber framing - up until the 1980's.
Mamabear having showered was picking up my glasses and having cleaned them no less twice was wondering why her eye-sight wasn't sharp and still out of focus. If I hadn’t needed them for driving I might have let her wear them for a bit longer and see how long it would have taken her to work out that she had been wearing the wrong lenses . . . ^^
We knew it is a long drive (not so much the K's but the time it takes to get there) due to the fact that parts of the road leading to Karamea are very windy to drive along – so average speed through this part more like 40-50km/h!!! Interestingly enough after you leave the major towns on the Coast there is a often a easily missed and somewhat small sign warning you of NO petrol for another 90 or however many kilometers left to the next petrol station. Petrol can be bought in Karamea – then Westport – then Greytown of course and Hokitika – then at Fox (of glacier fame) town and after that in Haast (not sure about that part) - or at last in Wanaka – so the distances in-between are large indeed! You are also out of cellphone range and often literally in the middle of now where – so fingers crossed you do not run out of petrol or have a major breakdown requiring assistance! It does mean that you need to know your tanks limit and it is often better to top up then running low/out some place – for it is a LONG hike back for emergency rations.
Karamea itself promised a lot when first settled in 1860's with Gold-miners being the first settlers– but the Murchison earthquake in 1929 resulted in the natural harbour being silted up (called Liquefaction -something folks in Christchurch now know about) and cut the road link by two years and that put paid to the development of the town. The road down to Westport being to arduous at best of the times and takes about 1.5 hours. Even now it is a long drive and the two things that keep the place (population 600) afloat is the traffic generated from the world famous Heaphy track and dairying. Although it would be interesting to see how a milk tanker negotiates that particular road!!
The Heaphy track itself is about 82 km long and can be walked between 3-5 days. It is suitable for all ages – and the only care needs
to be taken at one section of the track where it is tidal and an alternative
“high tide” crossing is provided. It can be walked from both ends but
usually folks start near Collingwood / Nelson way and walk out at Karamea. This just
means you will need to have organized your return trip to the point at
Collingwood where you left your car– a 6 hour return drive!! The nice part is too
that if you drive up north from Westport, after Karamea and at the
beginning (or end) of the Heaphy track - you have r u n o u t of road to drive on!!!
From there it is only one way – back!! During the last few days we also
noted the large amount of sea-spray being whipped up by wind and waves–
being at times thick enough to make it look like driving into thick
fog!!
We eventually got to Karamea and had early lunch at cafe. We had planned to
walk to the Moira Gate Arch and Mirror Tarn tracks. Turns out that is
another hours drive from Karamea then a total of 1.5 hours walk and then
an hour
drive back to Karamea. Which was just to long (bearing in mind the further 3-4 hours drive back to Barrytown on top as well) – and so made two changes to the planned itinerary for the day – one being the resolution to come back and spend some nights here in Karamea in order to fully explore the surroundings and also to be walking the Nikau Palm track (short Loop) instead --- only to get our feet ankle deep wet. Part of the track is partially covered by incoming tidal waves. Walk itself very nice – lots of Nikau Palms (whence it's name), and deep dark green bush!! After that we sat on the beach for a bit – got another wave coming in on the spring tide and feet (or should that be knees??) now well and truly wet. The return drive to Karamea included taking with us some pesky local sand-flies!! We stopped at the local postal centre / come outdoor/ come garden shop and – FOUND yet another badge (again sort of locally made) and posted a post card to Oma. After picking up an Ice cream, back via the “short” hop to Westport were we took the opportunity to inquire about the newly developed Denniston coal attraction.
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http://www.denniston.co.nz/
Seems now you can enter a mine for some 200meters and do a hands on coal extraction! Cost – do not ask!! Mamabear decided she needed to see the Sea-lions colony so we stopped over at Seal colony at Cape Foulwind - a leisurely 10 minute drive from Westport town. Saw two sets of juveniles frolicking freely on the rocks – but not much else due to the fact that the grown ups were all at sea feasting on whatever fish they could!
The drive home from there proved interesting, with (having been overtaken by a car containing a German tourist) and then following the Michael Schumacher wannabe down to the Pancake rocks! Eventually made it safely to home base at Barrytown where we had left over dinner and cake and the obligatory walk on the beach for yet another cloudy and no sun sunset!
Post script - found these on the Web and on various brochures -
Karamea offers a variety of short walks, catering for
different age groups and varying levels of fitness. There will be
something to suit you.
Birdwatchers Estuaries We have several estuaries
in and around Karamea. They are well worth a visit. Bird life is
plentiful, with pied stilts, black swans, oyster catchers, blue
herons, and occasionally a white heron. You can walk for miles, and
follow small tidal inlets, but watch the tide.
Flagstaff (1 hour plus) Via the road to the
aerodrome. Turn left at the junction to go down to the beach, known
locally as the Flagstaff. Prior to the 1929 Murchison Earthquake,
which caused the harbour to silt up, Karamea had a busy port. 60
minutes plus for a workout round the sandspit! Sea and rivermouth
access. Fishing in season.
Karamea Riverbank and Estuary Walk (45 minutes plus)
An enjoyable evening stroll, beginning behind the Domain, or via the
river access at the end of Wharf Road. Follow along the river down to
the mouth. Tide permitting, you can check out the birdlife and return
through the estuary walkway, linking up with the end of Ray Street.
Big Rimu Tree (45 minutes return) This track is a
short walk through lush native bush to a large rimu tree. The track
starts 7 kilometres up the Umere Road.
Lake Hanlon (20 minutes one way) 20 kilometres
south of Karamea a signpost on the Highway indicates the short walk
to this tranquil and picturesque lake.
South Terrace Zig Zag Track (60 minutes return) This
track was originally used by the early settlers, and starts approx
2.5km up the Arapito side of the Karamea River. It takes you up onto
the South Terrace. Two lookouts give great views north of Karamea,
and of the river flats and farm land. If you continue along the old
roadline, you will find the old cemetery that was used by the first
European settlers on the South Terrace. Carry on walking past the old
cemetery, and you will come to the end of the road which gives access
from the South Terrace. Mountain biking is not permitted on this
Heritage track.
About 45 minutes drive (25 km) north of Karamea, the
Oparara Basin
boasts impressive limestone formations and is surrounded by truly
magnificent bush, and is home to the Powelliphanta – carnivorous
snails which are up to 70mm across. Sturdy footwear is recommended
for exploring this wonderland. Access to the Basin is via a gravel
road. Care should always be taken on the drive in.
The road is not suitable for large motorhomes or
buses, and cycles, for safety reasons.
Honeycomb Hill Caves & Arch
Karamea is home to the
Honeycomb
Hill Caves — world famous for their collection of Moa bones and
other extinct bird species. This cave system contains notable
limestone formations in its 15 kilometres of passages.
The
caves are protected, and ACCESS IS BY GUIDED TOUR ONLY. A
guided kayak trip to the Honeycomb Hill Arch is also available.
Customised tours
by arrangement.
Oparara Basin Walks
Public Access from the Oparara Carpark
Oparara Arch (25 minutes one way) 1km Take the
left hand track just before the Oparara Bridge. This is a well formed
track following the Oparara River to the larger of the limestone
arches. Blue ducks can sometimes be seen playing in the rapids.
Moria Gate Arch (30 minutes one way) 1.2km
Beginning at the Oparara carpark, this track takes you through
beautiful rainforest and moss-covered trees to a very picturesque
arch stretching over the Oparara River.
Mirror Tarn (10 minutes one way) 600m Turn right
at the sign just past the Oparara Bridge and follow the track upriver
to a small but picturesque lake tucked away in the bush.
Moria Gate/Mirror Tarn Loop Track (1 hour 30 mins round
trip) 4.1 km An easy-access easy-grade loop track linking
these 2 attractions. Explore down under the Arch, then continue on
over the top of Moria Gate (try counting the paving stones, where moa
have obviously been before you!) and loop around the terrace to come
back out at the carpark via Mirror Tarn.
Oparara Valley Track (5hrs one way) 14km A
stunning new full day walk, through ancient stands of rimu and
kahikatea forest, down the Oparara River. Links up with the Fenian
Track and comes out at the carpark in the Fenian. A reasonable level
of fitness is required.
The Valley Track has been built and is maintained by the Oparara
Valley Trust, as a walking track only. Please respect the purpose for
which the track has been built. The Oparara Basin is in the Kahurangi
National Park, and
NO mountain biking is permitted
in National Parks.
Oparara Valley Track to Sunshine Flat Shelter (1hr 30min
one way) 4.5km Leaving the Oparara carpark, walk partway
down the Valley Track for just a taste of the primeval rainforest to
be found in the Oparara. Take a breather at the shelter and read the
amazing story of how the track was constructed.
Crazy Paving & Box Canyon Caves (5 minutes one way)
100m Torches necessary. Continue 2.5km on past the Arch
carpark to the Cave carpark. A short walk through the rainforest will
take you to the Crazy Paving Cave (the first of the 2 caves), Cave
spiders and cave wetas a specialty! Continue on the main track up the
steps to the Box Canyon Cave and descend down steep stairs to the
cave floor. This is a large open cave, with several limestone
passages off to the sides.
K-Road Mountainbike and Walking Track About 10km
into the Basin. The return trip is approximately 27 km long –
graded as an easy to medium track. K–Road is wide enough for both
the keen tramper & the enthusiastic mountain biker, and features
areas of cut-over bush, exotic plantations, and fast regenerating
native species, with some water features and several stunning views.
The Fenian
In the late 1860s miners began fossicking for gold in the
Fenian, and cut a bridle track into the workings. Today we now enjoy
a series of easy-access, easy-grade walking tracks into this area,
through mixed beech/podocarp forest. A mecca for fungi foragers.
Fenian Walks
Walking Times and Distances are from the Fenian Carpark.
Fenian carpark to Sunshine Flat (3hr 30min one way) 9.5km
Walk partway up the Fenian Track, branching off at the Junction to
head up the Valley Track as far as Sunshine Flat shelter.
Sunshine Flat to Oparara Carpark (1hr 30min one way) 4.5km
After a breather at Sunshine Flat, where you will be able to read up
on the amazing story of how the track was constructed, continue along
the Valley Track to come out at the Oparara Carpark via Moria Gate
Arch.
Oparara Valley Track (5hrs) 14km A stunning new
full day walk through ancient rainforest, up the Oparara River, and
coming out at the Oparara Carpark. This walk and the above two
require a reasonable level of fitness, as there are a few challenging
switchbacks on the Valley Track.
The Fenian Track is part of the new Valley Track, connecting the
Fenian area and the Oparara Basin, which was built by the
Oparara Valley Trust as a walking track only. Please
respect the purpose for which the track has been built. The Fenian is
a Heritage Track in the Kahurangi National Park, and
NO
mountain biking is permitted in National Parks.
Maloneys Bluff (40min one way) 3.5km At 30 m
above the river, the hard granite outcrop known as Maloneys Bluff is
an excellent viewpoint to look northwards up the Oparara Valley
Fenian/Valley Tracks Junction (1 hr 15min one way) 4km
Another 15 minutes along the Valley Track from the Junction will
bring you out at Postal River
Fenian Caves Loop (1 hr 1.5km or 3hrs return from carpark,
5 kms) The Fenian Caves consist of three “open access”
caves. A torch or headlight, and sturdy footwear, is essential. A
helmet is recommended. Two of the caves are located beside the track,
Miners Cave and Cavern Creek Cave. The loop track passes through
Tunnel Cave, which is rough underfoot for some 80m. A reasonable
level of fitness is required. Track best walked in a clockwise
direction.
Fenian Gold Workings (1 hr 35min one way) 5km A
track has been cut up the Fenian Creek to the site of the Fenian
Goldworkings
Adams Flat (2 hrs one way) 7km An easy walk up
the old heritage bridle track to the clearing now known as Adams
Flat. Named after John Adams, an early settler/goldminer, who died
and was buried at the goldworkings in 1882.
Adams Creek Water Race (2hr 40min one way) 8km
Continue up past Adams Flat on a cut track to the Adams Creek
goldworkings and dam site.